I made them a little carry case for them to live in when they are not keeping my toes warm.

I am running a class to make these details over on my studio website Hannah and Bella

I have been making pants all week. These are my Frillybits pants made from 1940’s silk with vintage lace and silk tulle ruffles across the back. See my others over on my Hannah and Bella website. x

I do love a good pair of pants x

Hannah

As Part of Sherwood Arts week here in Nottingham, i have taken part in ‘Art in Shops’. A project where local artists display their work in reatilers windows.

I thought i would share it with you. For more photographs see my blog  Hannahandbella.typepad.com

Hello everyone, sorry the Frillybits girls took a vacation over Easter but Miss May is back to delight you. Miss Jackie Day has been itching to show you her selection of camisole tops, her top picks…

This is a 1940’s Butterick pattern, simple and elegant.

1940’s Vogue pattern with pin tucks and lace insertion.

A bit of an earlier camisole from 1901.

It’s been a bit of a struggle to find patterns and pictures so if you have any please so add to the Flickr pool.

Happy making, am off to the studio now to be at one with my sewing machine (that’s what bank holidays are for!…)

Hannah x

I made it from 1940s cotton print lingerie fabric which i bought many years ago and was waiting for the perfect project to use, i am so pleased with the result.

I made it up using this 1940’s Simplicity pattern and changed it to have a lace appliqued edging in pink.

I made it up using this 1940’s Simplicity pattern and changed it to have a lace appliqued edging in pick.

Lace applique detail with roulou loop straps.

Gathering under the bust.

I made a placket for the opening and attached poppers.

Antique lace attached at bottom by machine.

Back view.

I have another cut out in this lovely rayon flower print and i think i will make a ruffled edge for the bottom…can’t beat a ruffle!

Hannah x

p.s. We are having a bit of problem with the layout, it seems to jumble everything up so bear with us while we try to fix it!

For this pattern we will be using the Haslam pattern previously posted. If you made your French knickers from this pattern, it won’t be too far out from what you will be doing here.

You will need: your measurements
large sheets of pattern paper/ drafting paper/ flipchart paper (which is what I use as I have a lot of it!)
Pencil
Scissors for paper cutting (don’t PLEASE use the scissors you usually use for fabric – you have been warned!)
Fabric for practicing on – maybe some poly cotton/ sheeting or whatever you have lying around that is a similar weight to the fabric you will use for the finished item (i.e. heavy weight furnighing fabric probably isn’t the best idea….) – I would allow 2 metres as you need to cut the pattern on the bias for “give”
Pins
Dressmaking scissors

For your pattern, it may help to print it out from the Flickr pool so you can see what you’re doing.

The simplest way of starting off is to use the straight edge of one of your pieces of paper.  Join paper if necessary to have  2 pieces at least 30 inches long (sorry guys, I work in Imperial measurements, not metric!) – one for the front, and one for the back.

To draft the back:

Starting with the straight edge on your left, divide the paper from the top into 3 sections.  The first line, as you will see in the drawing, is 5 1/2 inches from the top.  The second line is 11 inches below this one – meaning it’s 16 1/2 inches from the top.  Mark the lines across the paper in pencil.  This breaks it down into the bust part (top), underbust (middle) and bottom, is well, bottom.

Next you will need to mark the width of the pattern.  The top line is for 1/4 bust measurement less 1 inch.  So if your bust is 20 inches, it will be 4 inches (make sense – 20 divided by 4 =5 inches minus 1 = 4).  Remember your bust measurement is the one taken at the fullest point of your chest, not underneath.

At the second line down, that marks the underbust from the bottom, it states it needs to be 1/4 hip measurement less 1 inch, so if you have 30 inch hips, it would be 6 1/2 inches.  Mark this point on the pattern.

At the bottom of the pattern it says 3/12 inches wider than the hip line we have just marked.  So in this case the measurements would be 10 inches.  As with the French knicker pattern, reduce the amount to, for example 2 inches if you want less flare  to the hip.  Mark this point at the bottom of your pattern paper.  Working from this we are going to put some shaping in.  To get the pretty “tulip” hem we need to put a curve in the middle (which is what we will attach the gusset part to.  To do this, mark 3 inches up on the straight edge, and 5 inches across, as in the pattern.  Draw a curve.

At the outside edge (the right hand side), mark 1/2 inch up from the bottom edge, and curve the line upwards, as in the picture.

Now we need to work on the top part of your Camiknickers -  if you look in the pattern, you will see the top part is drawn in dotted lines – this shows a rectangle we originally marked to get the measurement.  if it helps, draw this in now to help mark the points.  From the top left side of the pattern (what will be near the top middle of your back when it’s on) you need to mark 1/2 inch down horizontally. Using the pattern as a guide curve the line towards the top right hand side of your pattern.  This gives you the top edge of your garment.

Next, mark 3/4 inch in from the outside of your rectangle vertically.  This is on the 1st line you drew, which is 5 1/2 inches from the top edge.  From this you will need to mark 1/2 up, and this will form the curve you see in the picture.  This, when you cut it out will make the bust piece separate from the bottom piece.

Whilst we are discussing this section, it is worth noting the darts – the pattern shows you where darts are to be placed if they are required.  Darts help fit a garment, allowing the fabric to sit better against the body, although you may not need to do this.  This is why it’s a good idea to have some fabric you aren’t too fussed about to practice on.  I know from my own body shape and years of making my own clothes that I will need to lengthen the back slightly to allow for my generous backside, but place dart in the back (the joys of being a typcal English pear shape!).

Now you have drafted the back, let’s do the front.

As with the back we are using the straight edge of the paper as a guide, only this time the straight edge will be on the right hand side.

2 inches from the top of your paper mark a horizontal line across.  This line needs to be 1/4 bust measurement plus 1 inch.  So using the same example as before it would be 6 inches (20 inches divided by 4 =5 plus 1=6).

6 inches below this line, so 8 inches from the top of the paper, draw another horizontal line.  11 1/2  inches below this draw another horizontal line, which is 1/4 hip measurement plus 1 inch ( so 8.5 to continue with the example measurements).  You will notice that these lines are the same as the ones we drew for the back.

At the bottom of the paper you need to mark 4 inches bigger than the hip line – to use the sample measurements 12 1/2 inches.

Add the curve as we did at the back, on the bottom right hand edge, 3 inches up and 6 inches across, and mark 1/2 inch up on the outside edge, using the picture as a guide.

Moving up, mark 1 inch in from outside edge to mark the waist, referring to the picture as a guide.

To mark the top, 4 inches from inside edge (right hand side) make a mark.  This shows you how to mark the “triangle” part for the bust.  The outside edge (left hand side) also shows you to make a small dart 1/2 inch from outside (left) edge – the dart will be 2 1/2 inches long and 1/2 deep.  This will shape the fabric to your bust and have a more flattering shape when worn (i.e. no baggy fabric under the arm!)

On the left hand (inside) edge, mark 1/2 inch in to allow for the shaping of the bust part.

Finally to allow for the shaping under the bust part, on the right hand (inside) edge at the bottom of the bust part, mark 2 inches up (vertically) and 4 inches across (horizontally) referring to the picture as a guide.

Once again you will see allowances for pin tucks on the bust section and a dart under the bust for shaping.

Cut your pattern pieces out from the paper.  You will need to cut the bust sections out as well as the under bust section.

You should have 4 pieces.

Right – gusset.  From some spare paper, mark a pentagon (I think it kinda looks like one) that measures 2 inches wide, and is 5 1/2 inches high..  2 inches from the top of the gusset, it needs to be 5 inches across.  It may help to actually fold some paper in half vertically, and then in half again horizontally, so you end up with a cross shaped fold, and use the guideline in the pattern for guidance.

I’ll be back later with instructions on how to make your camiknickers up x

Anyhoo, March’s project is camiknickers – pretty and practical Camiknickers.  I think  I may use this Haslam pattern which builds on from the Step ins that we made in January (having some serious French Knicker love at the minute!) as that pattern worked out so well for me, and I love the tulip shaped hem – so pretty, and the added bonus is that they will help disguise my far less then perfect thighs.

This month we will also be posting some vintage embroidery patterns designed for making your lingerie even prettier, so have a look in the resources area – we will be adding to it regularly, so please keep an eye out.

And, last but not least, here’s Miss March – the very lovely Mary – enjoy xoxo

I used the Haslam pattern that was posted here for the pants, and once I had made a toile proceeded to cut them out of pretty much anything I could find.  Once I had made them up, I ended up running elastic through the waistband as the waist was far too large – probably as I am very generous when cutting things out and don’t use the full seam allowance when sewing – readers beware!

Anyway, the first pair are from crepe backed satin

- they feel gorgeous; I have used the same fabric to cut out a matching slip – more on that later!

I trimmed them with voilet bias binding and lace – the lace was meant to be much wider but I ended up cutting round the pretty bits and hand sewing it into place.

The second pair was from some wine coloured duchesse satin that was a remnant left from making my bridesmaid dress from a few years ago

trimmed in baby blue lace and bias binding, with vintage flower applique decoration.

I love this colour combination, and it was a great way to use up all the fabric I had.

This pair was made from some vintage taffetta lining fabric,

trimmed in chocolate bias binding

with flower applique on the front and back that were cut from some bra lace I was given a few years ago.

This pair is made from some fairly cheap satin I bought on the market,

with fuschia bias binding and lace that I ended up cutting small motifs from.

The closure has a button that was my grandmothers’ and a vintage lingerie bow trim.

The last pair (my favourite!) are made from some vintage parachute silk that was given to me as part of a wedding present,

trimmed with lemon bias binding and some lace and flower/ butterfly trims an elderly neighbour gave me from her stash

- she used to run a factory in the 60’s making lingerie, so they have definately come in useful!  I have enough of the fabric to make a matching slip, so that’s definately on the cards at some point soon.

I have now moved on to making some (well, 7….) pairs from cotton for more everyday use – they are so comfy, and especially when wearing stockings are far more practical. Speaking of stockings, I had a go at making a girdle the other day, and it worked, and is soooo comfy – will show pictures once I have washed it!

February’s challenge was a slip – well after having a play with a slip I used to wear all the time but no longer fits me, I made  a pattern based on it, but it needs some more work – the cups aren’t deep enough and the hips are too wide, so I will post pictures once I have resurrected it!

On a final note, you have probably noticed we have had a lovely makeover, which is down to the lovely Vicky at MakeHay.  Make Hay offer a range of services from website design and grahic design, to green website hosting and newsletters, and Vicky very generously spent her day off making our site look as pretty as it does, and showed Hannah and I how to do the things we wanted to do! So if you want to know more, please pop over and give them a visit.

Tomorrow is the start of a new month, so that means a new challenge, so we will be back again soon with more details.  Would you find it easier if you knew which challenges were coming up so you could prepare more, or shall we keep surprising you?  Don’t forget to add pictures to the Flickr pool too! xoxo